October is a transition month in the little coastal town of Peniche, north of Lisbon. Warm sunny days give way to autumn. The north Atlantic depressions start producing cloud cover, strong winds, temperature drop and, most importantly, large swells that surfers from all over the world come hunting for. But surprises await those who look a little further and ask questions.
The warming of the Earth’s average temperature is no longer a secret, and it is scientifically established that the poles are the globe’s regions that are the most affected. For the first time since satellite measurements exist, the northern hemisphere’s summer of 2007 saw the ice sheet melt so much that “regular” boats were able to navigate a route north of Russia that they aren’t supposed to: The Northern Sea Route.